A Travellerspoint blog

Montserrat to Guadeloupe

Montserrat
Saturday. 8/25/12
Left the marina at St Kitts around 11:00 and headed south.
Since we got a late start we headed over to Nevis, about 15 miles south.
Got there and dropped anchor but is was way to rolly to spend the night there so we decided to keep going to Montserrat.
Yeah the island with the active volcano.

Wind was in our face, again, so had to motorsail all the way.
Dropped anchor in a small bay on the northwest side at 10:30.
Having a problem with the windless. That's the electric winch for the anchor. Will check it out in the morning.
Penny had her cosmopolitan and I had my bourbon & pepsi with a tequila chaser and we hit the sack.

Sunday, 8/26/12
I got the windlass to work,for now, but I'll have to pull the motor and check the electrical contacts and brushes.
We sailed south on the west side down to where the volcano devastation is.
Amazing that a whole town is wiped out. Amazing that they built it there. We set sail for Guadeloupe. Should be there tonight.
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Deshaies, Guadeloupe
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Got in at 10:30pm Monday
Dropped the dinghy. Took a swim.
Went in to explore town & check in. No one there at customs.
Had sausage & cheese croissants at the bakery.
Hiked about a mile uphill to the botanical garden.
Wonderful. The Disney of botanical gardens.
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Penny with the Lorikeets.
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Tuesday
Head down to Pigeon Island and the Cousteau Nation Park. It's a marine sanctuary and small touristy beach town. Local touristy.
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They have quite a few snorkel/dive boats that take people out to Pigeon Island. Nice beach, black sand, with lots of snackettes and restaurants.
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We snorkeled the island then anchored in the bay and dinghyed ashore to check it out.
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Met a nice couple from Toronto who had just moved here 2 months ago. He spoke fluent French so helped us order at the bar. Claude and Nicholle. As she was still working on her French, she was really happy to hear English spoken. Very nice of them to pick up the bar tab.

Wednesday
Down the west coast of Guadelope to Rivier Sens. There is a cove beach with a small marina there. Anchored in the bay then poked around the shops and stores by the marina and checked the weather online. We were planning to see more of the interior of Guadelopebut the weather told us to keep heading south.

Thursday
Headed down to “The Saints”. A group of small island off the south end of Guadeloupe.
It was a good sail. About 6 tacks and we were in Terre-De-Haut where we grabbed a mooring ball.
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Nice bay with a great little town.
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It gets a lot of tourist from the big island, with ferries coming and going all day.
Cept the place closes down after the last ferry, about 4:00.
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Friday
Rented a scooter and visited the old French fort. Amazing what those people built back then.
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Hit a couple beaches, snorkled and downed a couple of beers before hitting the grocery store and back to the boat.

From Penny's facebook page.
When we were at the beach on the day we rented scooter, I noticed some small green fruit on the ground. I picked one up and bit it, just a little, didn't take a bite or eat it, just wanted to see if it might be something worth investigating. It was sweet. Being rather Eve-like, I offered some to Dan..just the same kind of bite I took....not to eat it, just to taste. He said it was sweet, too...I threw the little chomped fruit away and didn't think any more about it...until about 10 minutes later when my mouth began to burn, like I had eaten a hot pepper, not a real hot one, but definitely hot. Dan reported the same effect. We ate an ice cream and the effect began to fade but it was still definitely there. Not like a hot pepper anymore, more like a thermal burn.
When we got back to the Heart, I went on-line and did a little research. It turns out the little green "apple" is the fruit ofthe manchineel tree, the most toxic tree in the Caribbean, if not the world. The fruit is called the "death apple". There is no antidote. All parts of the tree are very poisonous. The Caribes used to use the sap to poison-tip their arrows. My mouth is still raw from the encounter, 2 days later. Thank goodness I was suspicious of the perfect condition of the fruits on the ground. Anything truly good would be eaten by the birds and bugs.
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Checking the weather we have a storm to our north and it's causing a big shift in winds. E. to NE. to NW. to W. to S. Full 180 degrees. So we have to wait it out till we head down to Dominica. Don't want to be there on the west coast with winds coming out of the west as the have no marinas to tie up in.

Saturday & Sunday
Moved over to one of the other small islands,close buy. To get out of the wind shift.
Spent the days cleaning the boat, snorkling and exploring.
Sunday afternoon went back to Terre-De-Haut for the wind switch again. Since it's Sunday everything is shut down.
So just relaxed on the boat and read a good book.
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Posted by Heart of Gold 18:20

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